Austrian Brier (Rosa Lutea)

Austrian Brier (Rosa Lutea)
This is a native of the South of Europe, having single flowers, of a yellow or coppery-yellow color; leaflets 7 to 9 in number.

The shoots are of a chocolate color, well fortified with spines.

It is very hardy, and from its color and hardiness offers inducement to the hybridizers, but they will find some difficulty in getting it to seed.

These roses must not be severely pruned or there will be utter absence of followers; it is only necessary to cut away shoots that are decayed or need thinning and merely pinch the tops of shoots that are left.

It is a small but interesting family, and gives us the only hardy yellow roses that are of value.

There are three varieties worth growing, the Copper, Harrisonii, and Persian Yellow.

The foliage of this class has a slight odor like the Sweet Brier.

History of Rosa lutea
The Austrian Brier was introduced from the South of Europe in 1596. History first notices it as being cultivated in Turkey.

Nothing of its origin is as yet known, though supposition gives it a locality in the fertile soil of the Chinese empire.

This rose has produced a great deal of money to the French venders, especially those charlatans who market in strange places, where they never intend to appear again under the same name.

This rose has travelled from east to west as the Double Yellow Provins, Double Yellow Moss etc.

The different varieties form a beautiful and distinct group, containing the deepest and purest yellow Roses in cultivation – Persian Yellow especially; this was introduced from Persia in 1838.
Austrian Brier (Rosa Lutea)

Buying Roses

Buying Roses
There are two main ways roses are sold: barefoot (plants that aren’t actively growing, with only packing material around their roots) and container-grown or potted (actively growing roses).

Barefoot roses are mainly available from late fall through early spring. The stems should be straight and sturdy, with an even, green color and the roots should be brown and slightly damp.

They may look unpromising at planting time, but they usually settle into their new home quickly and catch up to container-grown roses by the end of their first growing season.

Container-grown roses are enticing, because you can mostly see what you’re getting, and there’s more of an instant result when you plant them.

Look for a plant that has at least three sturdy canes – ideally at least ½ inch in diameter – coming from the bud union (knobby area near the soil line).

Look for a metal label on the plant, and check that against any other label on the plant to make sure the names match.

Be aware that the containerized roses sold at nurseries are often the same bareroot plants that were available earlier in the season, but these have had their roots trimmed to fit the pot.

Even though the top growth looks good, the plant may actually have a poor root system.

A few root tips peeking out of the drainage holes on the bottom of the pot are a clue that there are at least some roots.

Some retail outlets sell “boxed” roses, which are essentially barefroot plants with their roots enclosed in a soil-filled cardboard box.

These roses can be a good buy early in the season, before they begin active growth, but be careful if you see short growth on boxed roses.

The roots ar growing at the same tome as the shoots, and it’s easy to damage those tender roots when you take the rose out of the box at planting time.

Also, like potted roses, boxed roses have had their roots chopped to fit in their container, so they may have rather small systems to support their growth.

Buying roses in person gives you the opportunity to inspect the plants you want to buy and that’s big advantage.

On the downside, the selection is quite limited at most retail outlets. Sale prices can be tempted, but keep in mind that bargain plants may not be a good deal in the long run; they may be lower quality, they may not be suitable for your area, and they may not have been properly cared for.

If you’re a beginner, you’re better off buying a few good quality roses than many inexpensive but possibly unhealthy plants.

As you gain more experience growing roses, you’ll learn how to spot a true bargain and avoid a cheap, sickly plant.
Buying Roses

The Prairie Rose (Rosa Setigera or Rubifolia)

The Prairie Rose (Rosa Setigera or Rubifolia)
The Prairie Rose is much the mostly valuable of all the non remontant climbers.

It is indigenous to the country, being found in Michigan and many of the Western States.

Seeds of the common variety were sown about 1836, by Messrs, Samuel and John Feats of Baltimore.

The seedlings from this sowing were fertilized by surrounding flowers, from some of the best varieties of roses grown at the time, and from this lot came Baltimore Belle and Queen of the Prairies, the two best known sorts.

The foliage is rough, large, 5 to 7 leaflets, generally of a dark green color; for rapidity of growth they equal or excel the Ayrshires, and surpass all other climbers in hardiness.

They bloom large clusters late in the season, when other summer roses are past and have gone their ways and succeed over a greater extent of territory than any other climbers.

Although decidedly inferior in quality to the Tea-Noisettes and Climbing Teas, their hardiness and superior vigor of growth make them of great value where the more beautiful members of the sisterhood are too delicate in constitution to be made useful.

When, then it is desired to cover walls trellises, old trees, unsightly buildings etc, with roses, none will be found to do the work so efficiently as varieties of the Prairie Rose.

It is very desirable that further development of this important class should be found; we should endeavor, by artificial fertilization, to produce hybrids, blending Hybrid Perpetual, Bourbon and Noisettes with the Prairies.
The Prairie Rose (Rosa Setigera or Rubifolia)

How to Select the Site for Your Rose

How to Select the Site for Your Rose
Rose need at least 6 hours of sun per day to perform their best.

It doesn’t have to be six or more continuous hours; in fact many roses appreciate morning sun, a little midday shade, and then afternoon sun.

It is possible to grow roses with less than 8 hours of sun, but you’ll need to be willing to experiment with many different roses to see which work for your conditions and be prepared to keep trying despite some disappointments.

It helps to start out with roses that are noted for tolerating some shade, such as alba and hybrid musk roses.

Also look for roses that have reputation for excellence disease resistant, because roses growing in shade are less vigorous and are more susceptible to disease development.

Well drained soil is a necessity for virtual all garden roses. Roses grow best with a steady supply of moisture, but they don’t like soggy soil.

If you want to plant in an area where water stands after a rain, or where the soil tends to stay squishy underfoot for more than a few hours, you’ll need to lift the soil level by building raised beds.

It’s smart to test the soil in any site you’ve chosen for planting. Many gardeners overlook to test the soil and pH also nutrient levels, assuming that of other plants on their properties are doing well, the soil must be suitable for roses as well.

Sometimes that is true, but of there is some kind of imbalance, it’s much easier to correct the problem before you plant, or else choose another site that’s better suited for roses.
How to Select the Site for Your Rose